It’s pretty amazing how many of us who live in The Maritimes don’t know much about traveling in our own “backyard”. For those of you who are not from this region, the Maritime Provinces of Canada are Nova Scotia, Prince Edward Island, and New Brunswick. If you add Newfoundland/Labrador, it becomes “Eastern Canada”! I guess it wasn’t until I got into the travel business in 1995 that I did more touring the area. It took seeing other amazing parts of the world for me to really appreciate my home. This article features a great route that is enjoyed by locals and visitors alike.
The “South Shore” or “Lighthouse Route” stretches from Halifax to Yarmouth along the Atlantic Ocean. It’s home to incredible scenery, coastal vistas, quaint towns, warm and friendly people, lighthouses (of course) and some of the best little pubs in the world. For the purposes of this story, we’ll only go as far as Bridgewater, along Coastal Route 3 and its offshoots of Series 3 highways. More on other parts of this coastline will come at another point.
If you haven’t visited the Peggy’s Cove area, or are looking to revisit, you should. I will say that it is a bit touristy, but it is still a wonderful place. With its wave-swept rocks, it paints an enchanting picture. But don’t get too close, as there have been many occasions where unsuspecting visitors have been swept out to sea by one of the many ‘wild waves’. The lighthouse itself is called the Peggy’s Point Lighthouse built in 1915. One of 160 historic lighthouses whose majestic beacons can be found throughout the province.
The village of Peggy’s Cove is known for its quaint, East Coast skyline, with homes nestled along a narrow inlet and on wave-washed rocks facing the Atlantic. Although this unique setting has been designated a preservation area, it remains a busy lobster fishing village, filled with the hustle and bustle and boats during lobster season in that region. Each region of the Maritimes has its own season, which is regulated by the government.
Along the route to Peggy’s, along Hwy 333 in West Dover (another fishing town), it’s a great place to wet your whistle for delicious seafood and other great food. Shaw’s Landing is right on the water with a spectacular view of the harbor. It has a very unique story that I will let them tell you. The atmosphere here is warm, friendly, and offers free internet service to boot! Apart from seafood, the “Landing” offers burgers, fries, etc. Daily specials, a hearty breakfast menu and a children’s menu for the youngsters.
Now the journey continues past Peggy’s Cove and to link up with Route 3, or the “old road” as we call it, along the Atlantic Coast. The landscape speaks for itself. You will pass through the Queensland Beach Provincial Park. A nice walk if not crowded with sunbathers and frisbee players on a hot summer day. Our next Tavern Trek is in the seaside town of Chester, famous for sailing, stately homes, magnificent gardens and a laid-back lifestyle. Plus, Nova Scotia’s oldest pub, Fo’c’sle, affectionately known as “Chester’s Living Room,” is a casual hangout for locals and those just passing through. Go inside and sit for a while in the old bar. The kitchen strives to offer food of the highest quality by selecting the freshest ingredients and preparing them with care. They offer a great selection of ‘pub grub’, traditional maritime dishes and a variety of daily specials.
Go back up the other side of Chester and continue south to the soulful town of Mahone Bay. Its exceptional landscape features three magnificent churches along the water, one of the most photographed sights in Canada. Steeped in nautical history and even a bit of pirate intrigue, the city’s harbor is carved into Nova Scotia’s rugged south coast. The protected waters and magnificent views make it a popular destination for boating, kayaking, biking, and walking. But for us this day, it’s all about the PUB. Easily rated high on my list of favorites in Nova Scotia, The Mug & Anchor English Pub boasts one of the most beautiful balcony views I’ve ever seen. Stepping inside, you’ll find over 17 local and imported beers on tap and a full pub-style menu including, of course, fresh local seafood. Brunch is also great if you arrive on the weekend.
Just a few minutes down Route 3 is one of Nova Scotia’s gems, Lunenburg. It was formally established in 1753 as the first British colonial settlement in Nova Scotia outside of Halifax. Among its accolades: A UNESCO World Heritage Site, National Historic District, Canada’s Prettiest Painted Spots, Port City of the Year, and Society of American Travel Writers awards. Hugs go to The Knot Pub! “It looks like a hobbit hole, but it’s a delicious pub,” wrote a TripAdvisor reviewer.
After our day in the salty air and sensory overload from the stunning architecture and scenery. Time to kick back and relax with a pint. If you wonder where the locals go, this is the place. It has a decidedly marine charm. One of the main curiosities upon entering are the large horseshoe-shaped seats that seem right at home in the bow of a great ship. For hundreds of years, oak was the traditional wood used for shipbuilding in Lunenburg and inspired much of the wooden interior. The food is homemade and plentiful; the staff are as friendly as they come, oh and the beer is pretty good too!
As we head to our last stop in Bridgewater, you may need a nap or a designated driver, but the fun isn’t over yet. Your destination: the LaHave River Ferry on Highway 332 in East LaHave. As one of Nova Scotia’s last remaining cable ferries, this unique 5-minute ride gives you the perfect 360° view of life on the river. Carrying 14 cars on an open-air flatbed, the ride costs a whopping $5. The cheapest and shortest tourist cruise of your life! It starts going to LaHave (across the mighty LaHave River) every half hour at :15 and :45. Once you’ve “landed,” museum and lighthouse lovers can turn left for a kilo per the highway and follow the blue signs for the historic site to Fort Point, the first capital of New France in 1632. There you can see the lighthouse and museum.
If you just want to get to the pub, get off the ferry on route 331 for about 15 minutes meandering along the river. This becomes King St. as you approach the town of Bridgewater. Our last pub stop is not to be missed, the aptly named River Pub at 750 King St, on the right overlooking the water. Enjoy the wonderful patio with a direct view of the river. It is one of the nicest places on the South Shore to dine or relax with friends. Eight beers on tap, including their own brand. The menu features all the pub classics, as well as specialty items like the Mariner Mouthful, Rosie Melt, Lunenburger, Potachos, and the list goes on. A great last stop on the Pub Trail. From here, just follow the signs to Highway 103 for an easy one hour drive back to Halifax.
The South Shore Pub Tour is hands down one of the best day trips, or drive-throughs, you’ll ever be on. Locals and visitors alike.
See you on the shore
Traveling Tony T.