798 Art Zone is a dynamic and vibrant art and fashion district in Beijing set in an abandoned military factory complex. 798 hosts galleries, performances and exhibitions of China’s leading artistic personalities and is China’s avant-garde art movement. 798 is the Chinese equivalent of Greenwich Village and SoHo and has drawn visits from presidents, movie stars and royalty.
After you’ve seen Beijing’s ancient attractions, a trip to 798 will give you an enjoyable and enlightening experience of modern Beijing. 798 has many very cool and chic restaurants and cafes that you can also enjoy during your visit there.
History
In the early 1950s, the Chinese military was in dire need of modern electronic equipment that Chinese manufacturing capacity at the time could not supply. To solve this shortage and help speed up China’s industrialization, the Chinese government, under the leadership of Chairman Mao, established a joint venture with East Germany.
The joint venture was the 718 Joint Factory which began operations in 1957 on a 500,000-square-meter site in the Dashanzi area of Beijing that was farmland at the time. The factory was one of the best in China, employing between 10,000 and 20,000 workers during its operation.
In 1967, the 718 factory was divided into smaller units or factories to improve management. Those factories were 706, 707, 751, 761, 797, and 798. The 798 factory was the largest of the smaller factories.
During Deng Xiao Ping’s reforms during the 1980s, the 718 was deprived of government support and forced to become competitive. Unable to survive, 718 declined in the 1990s with smaller factories gradually closing and buildings left empty.
At the time, Beijing’s modern and contemporary art community was loosely based in the Tongzhou district, which was over an hour’s drive from central Beijing. Beginning in 1995, a number of prominent artists left Tongzhou and set up workshops, studios, and galleries in Factory 798 and other abandoned Factory 718 buildings.
places
There are many studios, shops, galleries, exhibits, centers, artworks and places of interest in 798 and walking around 798 visiting these places is enjoyable, exhilarating and sometimes a bit unsettling. There are too many places to describe, so I’ve included descriptions and photos below of the ones I found most prominent during my recent visit.
Baiyaxuan Art Center 798
This is a gallery supported by the Baiyazuan Institute of Art and Culture and has many impressive paintings on display. The building that houses the gallery was originally a dining room and auditorium for 718 Joint Factory.
Ullens Center for Contemporary Art UCCA
UCCA is a non-profit art center founded by two Belgian art collectors, Guy and Myriam Ullens. The center uses 8,000 square meters of space to provide an arts experience that includes and combines exhibitions, programs and events, fine dining, and shopping. I personally thought it was impressive, but I felt that shopping and eating were out of place. It is extremely popular so you should enjoy it.
798 Photo Gallery
This gallery is the first in China dedicated to photography and the goal of the gallery is to find and collect amazing photos and act as a cultural and commercial exchange center for photographers. The photographs on display at the time I was there were all black and white and the minimalist black and white interior of the building was a great match. The gallery also features a state-of-the-art black and white professional darkroom.
798 space
798 Space is pretty much the heart of 798 and is housed in the original 798 factory building with its unique curved roof and Mao mottos. The building covers an area of 1,000 square meters, can easily accommodate 1,000 guests, and is often used for contemporary art exhibitions, forums, balls, concerts, fashion shows, product launches, press conferences, and more. Espacio 798 also has a bookstore and a movie and video projection area.
It’s fascinating to see how 798 Space pays homage to China’s socialist past and present by combining art and politics. The remains of the factory machinery and the red Mao slogans in the room along with the art exhibits create a great effect.
chinese space
This is a large gallery tucked away from the main area of 798 and is normally used for solo shows. When I visited, the gallery displayed oil paintings by Zhu Jin, a well-known artist from Chongqing. His paintings aren’t the kind he would hang in the house, but they definitely have character.
square of originality
Originality Square is a large square in the middle of 798 that hosts outdoor exhibitions. Currently on display is the “Wolf is coming” sculpture collection and some very unusual individual sculptures.
Get there
It is very easy to get to the 798 by bus. Take bus 401 from the bus stop next to Exit H at Dongzhimen Subway Station on line 2. Get off at the 10th bus stop, which will be the Dashanzi Lukou Nan stop. The 798 will be across the street. You can’t miss the big red sign for the 798.
Alternatively, you can take the subway to Sanyuanqiao station on line 10 and then take a taxi to 798. The taxi ride will take no more than 5 minutes and will cost no more than 10 rmb. Tell the taxi driver to go to 798 or Yishuqu. The area is famous and every taxi driver will know where it is.
Travel tips
The area is open all the time, but most galleries and studios will only be open between 11am and 6pm, so try to avoid going out at these times. Many of these galleries and studios are also closed on Mondays.
To see most of the sights and fully enjoy the atmosphere of 798, plan to be there for at least three hours.