DIY Block Paving Instructions

Do you want to try your luck with DIY? This comprehensive instruction sheet will help you block the paving of your driveway, driveway, or patio. Although, with less weight and stress on walkways or patios, you are not limited to the herringbone style of laying the blocks, as you are with driveways.

Most tools can be rented from your local tool rental store. Most of these businesses allow you to rent a tool from one day or how many days you will need the tool. For this job, most people will definitely need to hire a plate vibrator. (Unless it’s on your Christmas wish list, of course!)

Tools needed:

Plate vibrator

Block cutter

Type1 subbase material

Drainage channels

Sand washed and sharpened

Shovels, Broom, Gloves

The selection of pavements, blocks and trim is for you to decide. Most local building traders will supply a range of these products. Or, specialty companies that make clay or concrete castings often have a brochure that you can pick up and read.

Step 1 a. Mark the area to be paved and remove all existing topsoil or surface to a depth so that the finished grade is at least 150mm below the moisture-proof course of any adjoining house or building. If the area is flat, it will be necessary, for drainage purposes, to create a slight slope during the excavation, dropping 25 mm over 1 meter across (1:40) and 25 mm over 2 meters along (1:80).

B. Compact the excavated area with the plate vibrator, excavating the soft spots and filling them with subbase material. vs. Install surface water drainage channels if necessary, that is, if the paved area slopes towards the house / building or any other place where water runoff is not welcome. Recessed manhole covers should also be installed at this stage if necessary.

Note: The finished paving level should be approx. 5mm above any drainage point.

Step 2 Install all edge restraints, whether curbs or edging, by placing them firmly in the concrete at the correct levels.

Step 3 Place the sub-base material within the constraints of the edges and firmly compact it with the plate vibrator; Depending on how well it compacts, you may need to go over the entire area 5-10 times. It is essential that this sub-base is firm and at the proper level and if there are gaps, fill them with sharp sand.

Note: Also, at this stage, if you intend to use lighting in your driveway, route the power cord inside a conduit sleeve on your subbase. You can figure out where to leave the ends of the wires in relation to the lights. If you are unfamiliar with electricity, I suggest that you hire a qualified electrician to install the electrical components for the lighting. Ideally, the lighting should illuminate each side of the unit.

Step 4 Spread the sharpened sand to a depth of 50mm, compact it with the plate vibrator and spread an additional 15mm of sharpened sand over the area as a loose ruler. Correctly level the ruler with a rigid piece of wood or a ruler bar drawn along the guide rails.

Step 5 Place a row of blocks in the sand along all edge restraints. They can be placed long against the edge (‘a stretcher track’) or with the short side against the edge (‘a headboard track’) depending on personal preference.

Step 6 Place the blocks hand tight only, with a 2-5mm joint gap, starting at a corner and bottom if there is a slope.

Notes:

to. Mix randomly and place blocks of at least 3 packages to ensure even distribution of color and texture.

B. If placed in a herringbone pattern, pull a string across the area at 90 “or 45”, as appropriate, and place the blocks along the line. To start a herringbone pattern, place stretch blocks along the line with a corner against the edge constraint and then fill the gaps with cut blocks, or use Bishop’s Hats, which sit flush against the edge constraint and they give you the angle from which to work.

vs. Whenever possible, pieces less than a quarter of a block should be avoided.

Step 7 Sweep the area thoroughly after it has been laid, especially if a block cutter has been used, to remove all chips and chips. Then check that there are no bad blocks; if there are any, this is the time to replace them.

Step 8 Compact the entire area with two to three passes of the plate vibrator.

Step 9 Sweep the joint sand over the entire area, making sure it enters all the joints between the blocks.

Grades;

to. Joint sand should not be applied in wet weather as wet sand will not fill the joints properly and could stain the surface of the blocks.

B. If there is a recessed manhole cover, care must be taken to prevent sand from getting between the cover and the frame.

Step 10 Re-vibrate the entire area to force the joint sand and fill any gaps that appear in the joints. Leave any excess sand on the surface for the wind / rain to wash off the joints. Alternatively, sweep the surface and re-sand if necessary.

We hope this DIY paving project and general foundation work tips will help you achieve the driveway you want. We have more information on this topic online, with pictures.

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